Shoot Like a PRO 101 II

Shoot Like a PRO 101 Daily Digest

Is there something wrong with post-processing?

While professionals think that post-processing is the only way to survive, there are some photography enthusiasts who think that post-processing is learning to adjust the hard way.

To be honest with you, post-processing is to correct the white balance, exposure and of course, some other details if RAW format is chosen above other formats.

The RAW format is designed for post-processing. It is the equivalent of film negatives. If film is scanned nowadays, of course, most of the people working at a photo-developing center are doing this is because they find it easier to do so.

Some tips to consider when you want to become an over-all photographer:

1.) Always shoot in RAW.
2.) You should have a knowledge in using Lightroom. Leave Photoshop for a little change and of course, watermarking.
3.) Read photography books and magazines. This helps a lot, actually.
4.) Learn to experiment and to discover.
5.) Of course, always bring your cam to any opportunity it may take you (e.g., events, exhibitions, concerts).

Additional Notes:

According to Michael Freeman, when using film, it is forgiving unlike digital since the sensor cannot exactly cater the different exposures a person desires.

Of course, post-processing is really needed if there’s an error, for instance error in white balance. White Balance presets or customized adjustment in the camera itself isn’t enough. However, if a person heavily relies in post-processing, it doesn’t look healthy. Besides, oversaturated photos are an eyesore, to be frank.

The reason why most photographers post-process not only because to correct exposure, white balance, but also to add special effects like never seen before by the naked eye itself. Besides, leave the rest of the story to the most spectacular subjects.

Using Manual Mode in your camera

Manual Mode is not really hard to use. However, consider exposure and depth-of-field when it comes to composition.

Aperture (Av) – the opening of the lens (composed of at least six blades).

LOWER number – WIDE opening – BRIGHTER
HIGHER number – NARROW opening – DARKER

Shutter speed (Tv) – determines how long or short light passes through.

the SLOWER – the BRIGHTER – prone to camera shake
the FASTER – the DARKER – steadier

ISO (ISO) – Image Sensitivity in general.

LOWER number – DARKER – cleaner
HIGHER number – BRIGHTER – grainier

Depth of Field (DEP)

This is often associated with aperture, and besides consider the following factors:

WIDE aperture – shallow depth-of-field – MAXIMUM bokeh
NARROW aperture – deeper depth-of-field – MINIMUM bokeh

Exposure Compensation (EV) – a factor that determines whether the subject is bright or dark, but in Manual Mode, maintaining the EV ±0 is a must.

Photographing Fireworks by using a point-and-shoot digicam

1.) First of all, set it to night mode.
2.) Just focus on the fireworks and of course, click the shutter button…
3.) Don’t move or shake your hand of any kind. Keep it steady.
4.) Once the shutter is released, wait for the camera to process your work.

There y’have it!

Samples of fireworks shot on a digital camera (Samsung PL210, which I haven’t reviewed just yet):





Or check it out HERE.

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About Molybdenum Studios

I am a very opinionated person. Get used to it. If you can't stand it, then so be it.

Posted on January 4, 2012, in Online Tutorials, Photography, Shoot Like a PRO 101, Tutorials and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.

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